Part Two

Adventuring

Adventuring

Ganghwa Island, just 90 minutes and 4,200 Won west of my front door, is a lush and quiet landscape of rice paddies, verdant mountains, Buddhist temples and mud flats on Korea’s western shore. The island lies just at the edge of the North Korean border and has a long history of blah blah blah invading […]


Third Time’s a Charm

Third Time’s a Charm

As if I do not have enough to do this week, I decided Sunday was the opportune moment to cook dinner for my girlfriends. Given my monstrous to do list, I wanted to keep it small and simple, so I prepared a menu of dishes I’ve committed to memory. My favorite way to eat in […]


Sunday in Samcheongdong

Sunday in Samcheongdong

Given the Very Long List of Things I Have To Do Before July 19th, I should probably not be prancing about in Samcheong on a Sunday afternoon, lollygagging in cafes, drinking Mango smoothies, buying necklaces, shooting Agfa, poking heads in shops, eating woodfired pizza and having a rather perfect summer afternoon with a Finn and […]


Today the sky opened up

Today the sky opened up

This morning, I woke to thunder. The really loud kind. I’d been dreaming I was on a boat on the ocean in the middle of a storm. There was a party going on inside the cabin, but I walked out onto the deck to feel the rain on my skin. Waves came spilling up to […]


Chocolates, polaroids, hot hot heat and a guitar named Karen

Chocolates, polaroids, hot hot heat and a guitar named Karen

As of late, life has been of the variety in which one does not know if one is coming or going. While there are presently some rather large question marks in front of me and the juggling act is reaching epic proportions, I am fairly certain of a few things. It is difficult to wince […]


Into the Presence of Still Water

Into the Presence of Still Water

Two months before I moved to Austin, I stopped through the city on my way back to Massachusetts from California. I took a small room at the Hotel San Jose on South Congress, where I drank cold beer on the patio, stuck daisies in my hair and listened to Toni Price sing her heart out […]


I have a question

I have a question

If, say, you were to stumble upon some fresh radishes at the market behind your apartment, and you happened to chop them up with japanese cucumbers and your favorite Korean green that you still don’t know the name of…if you squeezed a lemon over it and drizzled some good, chilled olive oil over it and […]


One morning, last November…

One morning, last November…

One Saturday morning last November, after inadvertently closing down Baby Guinness the night before, Youngdoo and I slept late and then meandered our way down Namsan Mountain, through the winding streets of Haebangchon, in search of hamburgers. Along the way we stumbled on a tiny little shop with ddeokbokki steaming in the window. For $1, […]


Summer Night, Around the House

Summer Night, Around the House

Thursday evening, Summer: A trip to the lab, drop off/pick up, a run on the river at sunset, This American Life, freshly picked flowers on the table, mushroom spaghetti, tending to plants, washing clothes, chatting with Doo, a blue couch and freshly washed windows.


Bits & Pieces

Bits & Pieces

Bits and pieces of the neighborhood on film. Hongdae & Sinchon :: Seoul


사랑 우리 나너

사랑 우리 나너

It’s been a long, weird week. Between the former President’s suicide, the rumblings north of the border, and the swine flu quarantine of a slew of foreign English teachers (of which a friend is part of the house arrest quarantine), Korea has been all over the global airwaves, and it’s not been very pretty. I […]


Piccata

Piccata

It all started at lunch last Friday. I spied a photo of pasta something with something sauce and CAPERS, slammed the menu shut and declared, “I am going to make chicken with lemon caper sauce tomorrow.” “Excellent, I have planned nothing,” declared Erik, inviting himself over. And so it was that I found myself hosting […]


at Corner

at Corner

One of the things I love most about Seoul are all the teeny tiny shops and their amazing merchandising and design. Everything is presented so beautifully, you want to buy everything in the place even if you can’t figure out what the hell they are actually peddling. at Corner near Sangsu Station in Hongdae is […]


Over and over and over again…

Over and over and over again…

Ever get in a rut? My tire is currently stuck in a skipping record of Japanese food. I don’t know what prompted it, but lately I cannot get enough of the whole izakaya, udon, Sanuki Bore, agedashi tofu, Lunch Set B, tempura sweet potato, soba noodle, miso, sashimi, gingko nuts on toothpicks thing. It could […]


Perfect Rain

Perfect Rain

You know that perfect kind of day? You know the one. The kind where nothing is particularly perfect, particularly spectacular or amazing, it just is? And in that is-ness is the perfect? That kind. Because today was not the kind of day in which birds follow you down the street attending to the hem of […]


The Sand

The Sand

I believe I’ve mentioned that I used to live in a cave in the remote corners of Seoul. Once or twice. I no longer live in a cave, and I now live in the exact opposite of remote. In fact, I live in the very center of perhaps the most vibrant part of Seoul. As […]


Tabletop

Tabletop

This weekend my kitchen table arrived, and with it, the burning desire to document everything I put on it. This weekend I put bread, jam, tea, tomato salad, homemade yogurt, kiwis, blank books, pens, hairclips, the iron, antihistamines and fresh ratatouille on my table. When I had tired of putting things on my table, I […]


Seoul Flea Market

Seoul Flea Market

A few weeks ago, I went to Seoul Flea Market to find weird, old Korean stuff to hang on my walls. I suffered a case of what my friend Tina calls IKEA Syndrome — in which one spend hours browsing and collecting, only to leave everything mere inches from the check-out due to overstimulation — […]


Twilight

Twilight

I don’t spend nearly enough time in my apartment. I spend a disproportionate amount of time in a tall building downtown, where there are Lots of Things To Do. So when I have some quiet time, with quiet light, I take full advantage. It’s a long holiday weekend in Korea, already full with a stocked […]


So light

So light

Buddha’s Birthday, 2009 :: Jogyesa Temple, Seoul


Oops

Oops

In my defense, I spied them several weeks ago, sitting quietly in the window of a shop down the street. I was late to meet a friend, but I vowed to return and retrieve them. I realize this totals three new pairs of shoes in as many weeks. I realize that these shoes are not […]


On Deck

On Deck

On Deck this weekend: Wine, cheese. Rain. Therefore, couch + book. Paella & tapas in Hongdae. [Perhaps a flamenco lesson, as well.] Korean Rock-a-billy. [No, really.] A big fat lantern parade. Lomo Shop. I hope your weekend is really, really…


Perfect Sunday

Perfect Sunday

The Perfect Sunday A Report by Stephanie Cornell Early morning run along the river to Okkervill River and Bon Iver Old men gathered in clusters playing MahJongg and Dominoes Small pig-tailed children bowing and waving “annyong” on the street Sweet, fragrant lilacs bursting everywhere Stumbling on the garden of a shrine, in full bloom Stumbling on yet another […]


To the East Sea

To the East Sea

Since returning to Korea, I’ve been averaging about two new words a month. Considering my Very Demanding New Job and the amount of space in my brain that is occupied with an unnecessary amount of information about consumer electronics, this is an amazing feat. I’ve learned turn left, turn right, I understand, an extra shot […]